Chinese musicssss

Yesterday evening, I found a really nice place to Suzhou, where hassles are forgotten in the locker room. Sorry for lovers of exotic, whose imagination has already sublimated pagoda millennium, shaolin temple, or a third-world neighborhood to feed their own fabulous dreams … Because it is an Irish pub.

The Shamrock pub in the city center, I was oxygen. The Chinese are terrible for this: their lives conjugally installed, they no longer go outside, staying safe in their slippers pointed towards the TV. Cai Li is the perfect sample, whereas I, I began to bang your head against the wall does not get out. She knows I love the atmosphere of bars, and bearing this, she repeated the last few weeks that I could saturate the fridge of beer, put the CD in the deck that I liked, just to create an atmosphere . But now, it is not at all the same thing. Another year at this rate and autarkic household, and I walked on all fours, become too wild to communicate. I like, in a relaxed, cosmopolitan atmosphere of bars for foreigners in China.

We screwed our elbows on the counter, ordering two Kilkenny pressure. Beer Western pressure are not legion in China, I am particularly reveled. And at the same time, Cai Li discovered the existence of dark beer, without much conviction about the value of its flavor.

Shamrock in there rock, and that also made me love the place, is that we can listen to good music. Because, paradoxically, even though China is a very sound, music holds little emotional. At Shamrock, we listen at your leisure, and without the music blindingly tympas, pop, rock, blues, and Celtic music. Most of these types of music are desperately missing trays. For Cai Li, it was new, and yet the background music has appeared neutral. And it was I who had to explain to her that what she heard was reggae.

1 / The American podium:

Foreign music is this … But in a very limited range. While stores CDs and DVDs are part of the sequence constant small neighborhood shops, even the poorest, and the number of films available in precarious stalls painted with lime, worth ten times the choice a French FNAC, there are only few international music.

There remains a handful of artists indéboulonnables, most of which are unknown or outdated in the West, to the point that no one remembers their existence in throwing a glance in the bins.

American singer retains a portion eternal, that Michael Bolton. In the Chinese mind, it is also known that the United States may be Michael Jackson or Madonna. Upon my arrival, I do not even know. I created a stupor doubtful in their aboriginal admitting they had never heard of. Rather than try to understand that he had met with success in China, the local preferred start me a smile, mocking my lack of western musical culture. Michael Bolton as he is universally known in China.

The Carpenters also continue to make fans, even among the younger generation, despite their proven mediocrity. The third thief melodies we hear everywhere is saxophonist Kenny G, who has not released an album since at least a decade. It is a little known in America, virtually unknown in Europe, but gets all the votes in China. And yet, Kenny G saxophone is what Christian Morin is the clarinet: a clown.

Daily, I hear in supermarkets, cafes, stores or fashion background music borrowed from these artists, with the terrible feeling that in the collective unconscious Chinese foreign music boils down to these antediluvian chants. A Westerner would not that in his nightclub. But here, each repeat-la-la-la Carpenters cutesy, it’s fashion. Even on the listening posts with discs western flower always


With Chong’an and Matang, the day was full of discoveries and landscapes.
The return time on the road Kaili we offered a few more like this below rice spotted from the road. That is the advantage of traveling with his chauffeur, you can do desire to stop to take pictures. ‘China through the window of the bus’ takes on a whole new dimension. Enjoy!


Kaili evening we hungry. Emotions that hollow:) We are tired but we will quickly regain strength around a real Pijiuya (啤酒 鸭), duck with beer, specialty Kaili!


A busy day, as we wish to see the following. Besides, it is already time for us to reflect on the rest of our journey. Tomorrow we leave Kaili to other horizons towards the south and Guangxi!

Matang 2

And above all they cared for each take their basket with everything they offer us to buy!

Jewelry metal gray (money?) But especially mats, clothing for babies, traditional adornments. Weaves are always very colorful and worked.

We do not come shopping but we want to bring back souvenirs. As we leave each with a fabric Matang, after tough negotiations, of course! 2 Western is a bargains for women of the village, but I’m redecorating my fashionable interior Matang either:]
We finally extricate ourselves from the trap business to continue our journey.

Of course we can not go unnoticed. So other villagers (indeed we have seen that women and children, men are surely the fields) came to meet us, to offer us other commodities that we are not always able to identify .

Even our guide Chinese fortune did not understand what the woman wanted to sell us, so what good strive:]

We continue our ascent on paved road. And yes, Matang is not flat but a village located on a hill.
From bottom to top, the houses strung out along the ‘street’ made of small stones, which rises up to the parties: almost at the top of the hill, a kind of square surrounded by a gallery where people Village will meet a few days later to celebrate the Chinese New Year.
From there, overlooking the village.
Below left and right fields and rice paddies extend far this wall of trees that hides nearby.


Then we descend. Along the way we see children playing in the streets with toys as there were in France there are perhaps 50 years.

It does not prevent me to find in this environment very simple life in the countryside away from buildings in large cities, these dishes which bristle roofs or enthroned in the courts, which are the channel of ‘modern civilization’ in these villages … contrast.

Back on the basketball court where our driver waiting for us on our return Kaili. Last views on the village last village that is trying to bring her home to show us her fabrics, we’ll take the dirt road in the opposite direction, back to the other civilization …

Guangxi then Matang, landscape of beautiful china

Since Chong’an 重 安, it will take us about 30 minutes to reach Matang 麻塘. But not a half-hour drive cushy to snooze in the back of the mini-bus restaurant, rather a half-hour 4 × 4 mini-bus to jump to each relief road at the end of which we were relieved to see that our driver knew his stuff.

Indeed, he had to know that these small winding roads and rugged were the only ones who could lead us to Matang. We can not say that these are signs that blight the landscape … At one point, we finally turn left. We think we will fall rush into a kind of forest, but not behind the wall of thick trees, in fact hides a dirt road that descends to only serve Matang, our destination.

As we approach, we can indeed see the village emerge. It seems like hidden civilization preserved by trees that hide the “road”. But we discover that civilization has been able to find other ways to infiltrate Matang.

Firstly, some will say that I am one fixette, but hey, even you admit it surprendait as: what is the first thing we saw down the mini-bus? A basketball court!
Frankly, when you say, “then I’ll see a tiny minority village lost in a corner of China,” you think to fall on it arriving?! To believe here basketball is more than a sport, it is a culture:]

Time to do a little more acquainted with our young guide, we let the villagers basketball to go further into the village. We do not have time to ask ourselves what we could watch, a small group of women we fall over. They want us to bring one of them to show us their craft personnel.

Curious to discover the homes inside and know what they wanted to show us precisely, we are guided by the hostess of the house that welcomes us. Meanwhile others were scattered. Surely look their parts products …

Round up … and all the village! Soon we find ourselves beset by dozens of small women, all dressed in their local clothing. Without saying that it is traditional adornments because it was everyday clothing, but certainly different from what we see “in the city.” Each wears a cap, a black coat, adorned with a colorful scarf. They often wear jewelry like earrings.

A special visit in guizhou

The entrance to the cave past, it is a walk along the water begins. A leisurely movement, rocked the “soft light” spots and neon psychedelic colors, it is not easy to take pictures … At least we avoided the “charming” voice of our guide and his mantra: the Korean speaking little Chinese actually ask the guide to be silent, and it was not displeasing to us So no geology courses …



Photos … just a little weird that we get to take when you have set foot on land between two boats, or when you flash that works well

Meanwhile we fly a little guide that begins to tell stuff about “Gao Bizi” (long noses, sweet word denoting the West, so we two in the boat). Here! Now it makes me chat?!, Well let’s see …

Then, the fault of the season? or the site itself? There was nothing unusual to see (but at least we have seen), at least not for the ticket price requested at the entrance! This is a blow to prevent Chinese sightseeing in their own country, I do not really understand the logic behind mysterious all …

So, at 14h, we are already in the mini-bus to return Anshun. Once in town, we quickly reach the railway station to buy our tickets for Liupanshui, our stage for the night.

Of course, we only get two seats on-reservation = no seat 无 座, and if there is anyway to sit hard. 24 yuan per person. The departure is announced an hour later than we expected, we still envrion 4 hours to kill in a town where there is nothing to see …
Cafe, attempted in vain to recover my transfer from France (I’ll have to see Guiyang), we find (with difficulty) a cafe, not heated, but when we can expect the rest.

Here we seem to spend as much of our time sitting in our bus or eating. Questions that torment me at the time: What time are we going to Liupanshui? Y we find the hotel indicated by the guide? Is that I began seriously to doubt the information contained in this …
Will I succeed to get my transfer to convert yuan to Guiyang? I have a feeling it’s going to be galley … more …

Boarding our train. At the sight of my ticket, I beckoned me direct drive 17, after the end of the train which, as my ticket has no specified car. But the train is about to leave, suddenly we got into a car, and try somehow to win this car, slaloming between Chinese difficult loading and unloading luggage, playing cards or watching parties going to use boiling water for their noodles after their car, etc … not easy, but we finally arrived at the entrance to the car, firmly guarded by an officer of the train, which in the view of our ticket, and especially our western facies I say, let us go, while the other passengers on booking last-stand on the other side of the door.

Clearly, we were privileged because we were in the West. Privileged because we found in a car not met at all, or even some of them were lying and sleeping peacefully when in the car next had to fight for a place. Who were those who shared our car? Students? Military? VIP relatives or any agents of the Chinese station? Mystery …
Some tickets were checked, not ours.

And we thus arrive at the stroke of Liupanshui 22h, not ideal for a hotel bargain.
We do pounce upon our exit from the station by a local who offers us. But first we want to know the prices of hotels that recommended in our guide has also been price prohibitive. Exhausted, we therefore accept to see what we offer our guide at the moment. Neither more nor less than a homestay, we say very rustic, no heating / air conditioning, but blankets for 40 yuan 2 we close our eyes to the state of the bathroom / toilet and the nose of the smell of exhaust hole shower water … and … stool
Remember not our best, but budget trip: we catch up!

And our night will be short. We indicate that we leave at dawn the next day to our next destination: Weining, at the extreme western Guizhou.

my life, my expericen, i love you china

From there, we thought we could immediately buy train tickets in Liupanshui 六盘水 for the evening, but no time to cross town for it. It is 10:45, a bus leaves the caves Longgong now, the next is the last 14h and restarts caves to 17h, knowing that the journey will take about 1 hour … um, without much hesitation, we buy food one end and jump on the bus!
7 yuan for our mini-bus, which takes us once again along the terraced fields to the site so impressive caves.

Here, the direction of ticket purchase. And we see at our expense tourism development in China. More sites get ratings, and there are ‘A’, plus it’s nice in theory, in practice it is more expensive!

Naturally, the site we had chosen, in part because deemed good value for nice price / had to get his ranking ‘AAAA’. Suddenly, BAM!, 120 yuan ticket full price, 60 yuan for students, phew Finally, except for Sandrine: Gulp a bit anyway: we expected to pay about 35 yuan per capita …
Still happy that we do not go to soyions célèbrissimes waterfall not far away, surely dry this time of year, and possibly entering high salt …

We therefore decided to take advantage of all the attractions available on the site, which seems mostly desert … But already a nice view, these landscapes we finally have time to immortalize our millions of pixels! Longgong Dong 龙宫 洞, Caves of the Dragon Palace, here we come!


Panorama at the entrance of the caves
We rely particularly enjoy the boat ride inside the caves. Upon inquiry, we follow the river in search of some signpost, but nothing comes to tell us which direction to take. We cross a dragon with flower water …


Dragon awash


Cross some bridges … well guarded by the hosts, and catch up two South Korean tourists rewarding us with a “hello”, accompanied by their Chinese guide. They are heading for the boat ride, it’s good, we follow!

The boat ride is worth a little climbing (ah, well, it was good to leave our big bags …) before reaching our proud vessels.

Longgong dong china

After our inglorious day the day before, we had way back to better prepare the days that followed. Reminder: we must absolutely be back to Guiyang January 21 to be able to buy some train tickets back to Shanghai.

From 19 to 21, so that left us 2 full days to go wander a bit. The question was naturally asked was: where? We may keep the Guizhou Southeast for the rest of the journey which promised longer, so we left the West (Northern Guizhou missing a priori interest).

The western Guizhou, they are essentially caves, waterfalls, lakes, etc … well, not super easy site to practice with large bags of hiking. Briefly, after studying the possibilities of circuits, and taking not pay hotel room 150 yuan a night every night, we found ourselves in échaffauder plans to travel light, economical, and efficient, while fulfilling our goal of returning. It is decided Thursday 19 morning, we get up early to drop our bags at the station previously set identified, and we head to Anshun and cave near Longgong before leaving by train to Liupanshui Shuicheng-where we spend the night to leave the next morning for the fresh and Weining Caohaihu lake and take the night bus that would take us back, spruce, 21 to Guiyang in the morning (see map). And guess what! We did it! And as we saw really interesting stuff this time
18 evening, I dutifully copied a few pages on the useful information from my Lonely: 2 kg gained. And as expected, the 19 morning sunrise 7:00, breakfast at the hotel engulfed, we put our bags in the instruction carefully filled with things we would not need during these two days. 24 yuan deposit for 3 days, mission travel light: ok, economic: it is gone.
The day before, a Chinese gave us the price of 25 yuan for buses to Anshun 安顺, but this morning, miracle of Chinese inflation, no way to negotiate less than 30 yuan. We hesitate a little, not really want to get ripped what we must say that we are the only Foreign corner (we do not cross other since our arrival), but our quick survey, through the authentication tickets Vietnamese (Yuelan is not it?), we confirm the price: 30 yuan per capita. It was honest, true bus (not a jigger 4-wheel) led us to destination about 1:15 on the highway.